The Gower Peninsula was the first area in the UK to be designated as an AONB in 1956 which is one step down from National Park Status. When you see what this compact area has to offer, you’ll probably agree that was an injustice. In a relatively small area, there’s a wealth of coastal scenery to be seen from marshes, sand dunes and world-class beaches to rocky coasts and iconic landmarks such as Worm’s Head, Three Cliff’s Bay and Rosili.
The walker is also well catered for on the way, with numerous villages peppered liberally around meaning you won’t be walking far before you come across a pub or cafe. Those looking for a bit more night life might be surprised to find that the Gower Peninsula is just on the outskirts of the city of Swansea.
Gower Coast Path
Thee’s no doubt that the best walk on the Gower Coast is to walk ALL the Gower Coast. Ok, this one’s cheating perhaps, but we can’t recommend this enough. The entire route starts from Gowerton, and covers just over 80km of spectacular coastline before finishing in Swansea Bay. A fit walker should be able to complete this easily in 3 days, though a more leisurely 4 day itinerary allows you to enjoy a lot more of the landscape, beaches and the all important hospitality on the way!
This walk from the village of Llanrhidian to Cheriton in northern Gower, can be walked as a couple of circular walks, or you can walk out on the coastal section and include the inland diversion on the return. The coast on this part of the Gower is mainly salt marshes, but not without interest. You can visit Weobley Castle, a 14th century fortified manor built by the wealthy de la Bere family who were stewards to the lords of Gower.
Weobley Castle View of Weobley Castle from the north west.
North Gower wetlands View of wetlands from Weobley Castle.
The north wesstern corner of the Gower again has its own personality. There’s plenty of interest with sand dunes extending a number of kilometres north to Whiteford Point, glorious sandy beaches to explore as far as Burry Holms and Llangenith Burrows as well as a number of interesting tors (Cwm Ivy Tor and Hills Tor) . This short walk from Llanmadoc offers a starting point in order to explore this fascinating section of Welsh coastline.
View From Spaniard Rocks Looking south across the beach.
Broughton Bay Broughton Bay is a beach of the Gower Peninsula, south Wales, located at the north western tip. The bay is backed by sand dunes further inland. Access to the adjacent Whiteford Sands beach to the west is only available at low tide.
Walking through the dunes The southern end of the extensive dune system at Whiteford Burrows. The dunes have piled high up the side of the limestone scarp which ends at High Tor.
Rhosili Bay is the longest beach on the Gower, stretching from Spaniard Rocks and Burry Holms in the north, ending just short of Worms Head to the south. This walk take in both the headland towards Worms Head, most of the beach and the summit of Rhosili Down. It may only be 193m in height, but gains a feeling of height owing to its proximity to the sea.
**Warning – this route is tidal and you’ll only have around 2.5 hours either side of the low tide to complete the walk. Check the Tide Times locally before setting out**
Worm’s Head is a tidal island located to the south of Rhosili Bay. Care is certainly needed for the walk, as the causeway to access the islands is only accessible for a few hours either side of high tide. The going across the tidal causeway is rough going, so you’ll need to make sure to allow plenty of time according to ability to cross back to the mainland and not become one of the many who don’t plan ahead and need to be rescued by the lifeboats. However, if there is any doubt you shouldn’t attempt to cross the causeway when the tide is coming in, and especially not attempt to swim across. The walk itself is across the slippery rocky shore to get to the island, and then a grassy path along the sharp spine of Worms Head. This includes crossing the Devil’s Bridge, an angular sea arch that leads towards the furthest end of Worm’s Head.
Inner And Outer Head A view 2 hours before low tide towards Inner And Outer Head on Worms Head/Penrhyn-Gwyr.
View Towards Worms Head/Penrhyn-Gwyr A view from the rocky coastline below the lookout station towards Worms Head/Penrhyn-Gwyr around 3.5 hours before low tide.
Outer Head Closing in on Worm’s Head, with the first view of Devil’s Bridge. Note the rock profile.
Outer Head View of the Outer Head of Worm’s Head from the Devil’s Bridge.
Along Worm’s Head View back along Worm’s Head towards Rhossili.
Oxwich Point is a headland between the villages of Oxwich and Port-eynon, and their eponymous bays. This walk takes in the main headland, with the path in places getting high up for some views, and also descending near the sea which has some interesting rocky shores, as well as through some rare coastal woodland.
Descending path near Oxwich Point This path drops down to meet the coast path and provides an alternative route from Oxwich. The view is eastwards along the Gower coast towards Mumbles, with the coastline near Port Talbot visible in the distance.
Setting off from the village of Southgate, the walk follows the Wales Coast Path along towering cliffs towards and around Pwlldu Head. It descends to the peaceful beach at Pwll Du, where you’ll need to re-trace your steps back to the start.
Another quick walk from Southgate takes you down to Pobbles Beach and towards the spectacular Three Cliffs Bay. This is names after the three limestone cliffs at Pobbles Beach, with this walk providing the perfect opportunity to explore the beaches and walk through the natural arch that allows you to pass through the Three Cliffs. This is only possible in low tide, so ensure you time your trip accordingly.
A short optional excursion is to Pennard Castle, a spectacular ruin perched precariously above Pennard Pill.
Castell Pennard There was a previous earth and wood ringwork castle here built early C12 which was superseded in late C13/early C14 by this stone castle. It commanded an excellent position on the edge of Pennard Pill and was matched by another on the opposite side of the valley but the castle was inexpertly constructed for military defence. However after only a hundred years or so it surrendered to a natural foe, the encroaching wind-borne sands. A legend tells that this was the result of the castle’s Norman baron disrupting the revels of the telwyth teg (fairy folk) down on the beach below.
Pobbles Beach From the clifftop looking north-west across Pobbles Beach and beyond to Three Cliffs Bay. The hillside at Cefn Bryn on the horizon. To get to this beach requires a walk and climb down the burrows from Southdown, but the rewards include excellent south-facing sand and the natural arch.
Pobbles Beach and the Three Cliffs View north at low tide to the ‘three cliffs’, which clearly show the high tide level. This block of limestone is a natural arch. The large dark patch in the centre is a tunnel entrance leading to the other side. An easy walk at low tide but under water at high tide.
This walk provides a welcome change of scenery, being largely a walk through the steep sided and wooded Bishopston Valley. The valley is dry (ish) higher up as the Bishopston River disappears down a sinkhole. You can hear the underground stream at the cave known as the Guzzle Hole, but it remains out of site. The stream eventually re-emerges only to be dammed up by a shingle bar at Pwll Du Bay – forming the “Pwll Du” or black pool. You’ll need to re-trace your steps to return to the beginning but you could also extend the route via Caswell and Langland Bay and into Mumbles for a better outing.
Blackhills stream A tree leans precariously over the stream as it winds its way towards Pwlldu Bay. The river bank has been revetted to prevent erosion at the bend in the stream.
Bishopston valley A brief change of scenery as one emerges from the steep-sided and densely wooded Bishopston valley. Shortly the path to Pwlldu bay takes a sharp turn to the left around the Iron Age hill fort at Hanging Cliff.
Pwlldu Bay looking towards Pwlldu Head National Trust owned. Used to be a site for limestone mining. This lovely cove is backed by extensive woodland, and is stunning.
Pwll Du Bay The beach is sand at low tide, backed by a substantial pebble bank which has partially blocked a stream, forming a large pool just behind the beach – the Pwll Du (Black Pool).
The final walk finds us nearing Swansea Bay and the Mumbles, walking from Caswell to Langland Bay. Both of these beaches are close to The Mumbles, and are more developed and busier than those beaches to the west of the Gower. If time permits, the walk would be much better walked as a linear walk by continuing along the coastal path towards Mumbles Head and into Swansea Bay.
Middle Head and Mumbles Head
Langland Bay Looking across Langland Bay showing some of the rocks exposed as the tide goes out.
The Clifftop path to Langland Bay from Caswell Bay
Dave Roberts founded Walk Eryri in 2004, with the aim of providing routes that are off the beaten track. Walk Eryri is now part of Mud and Routes which continues to provide more off beat routes and walks in Snowdonia and beyond. Dave has been exploring the hills of Eryri for over thirty years, and is a qualified Mountain Leader.
Dave also established Walk up Snowdon, Walk up Scafell Pike and Walk up Ben Nevis just to mention a few.
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